From its crystalline beginnings as a rivulet seeping from a glacier on
the Tibetan Himalayas to its broad, muddy amble through the jungles of
Myanmar, the Nu River is one of Asia’s wildest waterways, its 1,700-mile
course unimpeded as it rolls toward the Andaman Sea.
But the Nu’s days as one of the region’s last free-flowing rivers are
dwindling. The Chinese government stunned environmentalists this year by
reviving plans to build a series of hydropower dams on the upper
reaches of the Nu, the heart of a Unesco World Heritage site in China’s southwest Yunnan Province that ranks among the world’s most ecologically diverse and fragile places.
Critics say the project will force the relocation of tens of thousands
of ethnic minorities in the highlands of Yunnan and destroy the spawning
grounds for a score of endangered fish species. Geologists warn that
constructing the dams in a seismically active region could threaten
those living downstream. Next month, Unesco is scheduled to discuss
whether to include the area on its list of endangered places.
Among the biggest losers could be the millions of farmers and fishermen
across the border in Myanmar and Thailand who depend on the Salween, as
the river is called in Southeast Asia, for their sustenance. “We’re
talking about a cascade of dams that will fundamentally alter the
ecosystems and resources for downstream communities that depend on the
river,” said Katy Yan, China program coordinator at International Rivers, an advocacy group.
Suspended in 2004 by Wen Jiabao, then the prime minister, and officially
resuscitated shortly before his retirement in March, the project is
increasing long-simmering regional tensions over Beijing’s plans to dam
or divert a number of rivers that flow from China to other thirsty
nations in its quest to bolster economic growth and reduce the country’s
dependency on coal.
According to its latest energy plan, the government aims to begin construction on about three dozen hydroelectric projects across the country, which together will have more than twice the hydropower capacity of the United States.
So far China has been largely unresponsive to the concerns of its
neighbors, among them India, Kazakhstan, Myanmar, Russia and Vietnam.
Since 1997, China has declined to sign a United Nations water-sharing
treaty that would govern the 13 major transnational rivers on its
territory. “To fight for every drop of water or die” is how China’s
former water resources minister, Wang Shucheng, once described the nation’s water policy.
Here in Bingzhongluo, a peaceful backpacker magnet, those who treasure
the fast-moving, jade-green beauty of the Nu say the four proposed dams
in Yunnan and the one already under construction in Tibet would
irrevocably alter what guidebooks refer to as the Grand Canyon of the
East. A soaring, 370-mile-long gorge carpeted with thick forests, the
area is home to roughly half of China’s animal species, many of them
endangered, including the snow leopard, the black snub-nosed monkey and
the red panda.
Clinging improbably to the alpine peaks are mist-shrouded villages whose
residents are among the area’s dozen or so indigenous tribes, most with
their own languages. “The project will be good for the local
government, but it will be a disaster for the local residents,” said Wan
Li, 42, who in 2003 left behind his big-city life as an accountant in
the provincial capital, Kunming, to open a youth hostel here. “They will
lose their culture, their traditions and their livelihood, and we will
be left with a placid, lifeless reservoir.”
As one of two major rivers in China still unimpeded by dams, the Nu has a
fiercely devoted following among environmentalists who have grown
despondent over the destruction of many of China’s waterways. The
Ministry of Water Resources released a survey in March saying that
23,000 rivers had disappeared entirely and many of the nation’s most
storied rivers had become degraded by pollution. The mouth of the Yellow
River is little more than an effluent-fouled trickle, and the
once-mighty Yangtze has been tamed by the Three Gorges Dam, a $25
billion project that displaced 1.4 million people.
For many advocates, the Nu has become something of a last stand. “Why
can’t China have just one river that isn’t destroyed by humans?” asked
Wang Yongchen, a well-known environmentalist in Beijing who has visited
the area a dozen times in recent years.
Opponents say it is no coincidence that the project was revived shortly
before the retirement of Mr. Wen, a populist whose decision to halt
construction was hailed as a landmark victory for the nation’s fledgling
environmental movement. Although he did not kill the project, Mr. Wen, a
trained geologist, vowed it would not proceed without an exhaustive
environmental impact assessment.
No such assessment has been released. Given the government’s goal of
generating 15 percent of the nation’s electricity from non-fossil fuel
by 2020, few expect environmental concerns to slow the project, even if
the original plan of 13 dams on the Nu has for now been scaled back to
5. “Building a dam is about managing conflicts between man and nature,
but without a scientific understanding of this project, it can only lead
to calamity,” said Yang Yong, a geologist and an environmentalist.
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